Week 34 - We survive a trip to Quillabamba!

Sometimes "survive" isn't much of an exaggeration.  In keeping with our "every day is a new adventure" motto, we prepare for a Monday - Friday trip to Quillabamba, in one of the far corners of the mission.  It's also called the "jungle", like Puerto Maldonado, but it's 7,000 ft elevation rather than the 600 ft at Puerto.

The daunting part of this trip is the 220KM drive.  It takes about 6 hours.  Sounds like a long time for that drive, and it is.  If you look on Google Maps and plot the drive between Cusco and Quillabamba, you'll see what the twists and turns of the road look like - there are so many switchbacks going up and down that the mapmakers can't get them any closer together.  Hna J was looking forward to this trip, because we've heard so much about Quillabamba - but she was NOT looking forward to the drive, and with good reason.

We had a couple choices on getting there:  we can take a "combi" or van - that is cheap, but you literally have no control over anything.  First they pack every seat full, and most people have bundles of stuff that are jammed inside, or lashed on the roof, and the drivers are in a race to see how fast they an get there.  Definitely not the experience that Hna J could endure.  The other choice is to go by car.  The cars are usually a Toyota Yaris - the "big" car here, but small in the US.  There are 4 seats for sale at 40 Soles each, and you don't get to choose your seatmates or have any control over the driver - but there is another option - you can buy all the seats for 160 Soles or about $50, which we did.  To further assure whatever comfort and enjoyment we could get, I made up a 6-item list that the driver had to agree to - which basically stipulated that no speeding or unsafe driving was allowed, he would stop whenever we wanted, and that safety was the highest priority, not speed.  I took a taxi to where the cars to Quillabamba are based (different destinations have different bases around Cusco), made a deal with a driver whom I felt would stick to my rules, and we headed back to our apt to pick up Hna J and our luggage.  Our driver Rento turned out to be a very good choice, and we will use him again for other trips.  He was incentivized by the small stack of US $1 bills I laid on the dash as a "propina" or tip, with the threat to take them away if he didn't drive safely.  To his credit, he did an outstanding job and earned his propina.

We made our first stop at Ollantaytambo, which is about 80KM away.  We have been to Ollyt before, and it is one of our favorite places in the Sacred Valley.  We weren't sure whether the first of 2 funerals we saw along the way were omens or not.  Following the funeral in the church, the pallbearers carry the casket to the cemetery, with all the family and friends in procession with colorful flowers.  There is usually a small band playing, and all the traffic stops, and the onlookers pause in respect.

Immediately after leaving Oyyt, we start on the twisties.  This is a view looking back where we have just driven.  This drive is rated as one of the most scenic in South America, and its certainly earns that rating.  The road is newly paved and in good condition, but there's no other way besides the hairpin turns to gain or descend in elevation.  From Cusco, we start out at 11,000ft, drop to 9,000ft, ascend to 14,200ft, then descend to 7,000ft in Quillabamba.  This would be a fantastic motorcycle road, I would love to make this drive on my C14 with a few friends, but this won't be happening, unfortunately.  The views are spectacular, and these photos are only a few of the nearly 80 that I took along the drive down and back.

No, that isn't fog, those are clouds that the road disappears into.  The temps went from very pleasant, to near freezing at the top of the Abra Malaga pass at 4,316 meters (14,200ft).

The pass is 14,200 ft, and people live at 14,000 ft.  Don't ask me why they choose to live here, the land is pretty barren, the climate is harsh.  But the hardy Chechua people have been living here for 1500 years or so, and they have adapted very well.  A little bit can be grown at this altitude, but it's not very productive, and a number of sheep graze on the hillsides.  A little creek provides water, there's no electricity.

 Now the adventures really start!  About 1/3 the way down the other side, the highway was completely blocked by a fresh landslide.  This isn't the rainy season when the ground gets saturated, so there was no evident reason for this to happen - but it does frequently when you cut a road across the sides of steep mountains.  This slide had happened only about 30 minutes before we got there.  No one was caught in it, thankfully, there were about 20 cars ahead of us - most of which had passed us since Oytt.  What to do?  The road is completely blocked, and traffic going both ways is stopped.  In the US, this would call for a major emergency reponse, and it would take days to clear.  Not in Peru! About 30 men with their bare hands and only a couple pry bars and shovels were starting to level out the rocks to make a passage.  About an hour after we got there, they had it done. 

 There were only a couple of cops there, and they started letting cars over it.  There were a few tippy and unstable places through the rocks, but they were soon stabilized with strategically placed flat rocks, the hillside above is shale.  About a dozen cars and trucks were let through one way, then they were stopped and a dozen from the other direction were allowed to go over.  A line of volunteer spotters were ready to help if needed.  Here, Rento and Hna J get through while I went ahead to photograph.

Here's a look up at the slide area.  these are the rocks that DIDN'T come down with this slide.  You can see a few that are bigger than our car just hanging there.  Luckily everything was stable while we got through.  Those daily prayers, and those of our family and friends, really pay off.

 Well like everywhere, there are a few cheaters.  By the time we were moving, there were about 100 cars backed up behind us.  A few tried to scoot by in the other lane to the head of the queue.  The other drivers were honking and yelling at them for not waiting their turn.  The best part was when they finally got to the head of the line, one of the cops was waiting for them, and he yanked their drivers license, and made them back all the way to the end of the queue.  Of course everyone was really cheering now.  Don't know if these guys were embarrased, but their plan didn't work out.

Finally down the other side, and about 5 hours into the trip, Hna J had reached her limit.  We stopped in Santa Maria for a break and a drink.  She took 1 dramamine before we started, and another along the way, and she really wasn't feeling very well, but she took it like the trooper she is.

We arrive safely in Quillabamba, check into our hotel, and decide to get a bite to eat.  This photo pretty well sums up the day - I thought it was a fantastic drive with great views and sights - and Hna J just had to endure it.

The next morning we start to work!  Our first stop with Elders Falslev and Montero is at the home of Hno. Jayo, whose family runs a C-store and restaurant.  After our cita, we step outside for a guy photo.  A beautiful day here, but there are mosquitos and other little biting things, so we're doped up with DEET.  Flowers are blooming, but you can see the dry hills in the background.  In a couple of months, the rainy season will begin, and everything greens up.

Hna J makes a new friend. Hna. Petronila and her family operate a nice restaurant and party destination on the edge of town - they even have a Go-Kart track.  The day was so pleasant that we just sat outside, and enjoyed the beautiful day, along with some cool drinks.  Her son Percy is getting married next month, and we updated their family tree with approved names for him to take to the temple.

When Hna J was offered some fresh fruit from Hna Petronilla's trees - that grow right in her front yard - she didn't hesitate, and Hna Petronila sent us away with a couple bags full.  These are a variety of citrus, like oranges, but they still have some green when ripe, and are very tasty and juicy.  Bananas are ripening as well, but unfortunately the mangos are still about a month from being ready.

There are 2 sets of Hermanas serving in QB, and they joined us for a visit to the home of Hna. Mery.  Along with Hna J are Hnas Solar, Rengifo, Robinson, and Bazo.

 The young missionaries have to be in their apartments by 9:00pm, but that rule doesn't apply to us, so we were able to stay late with the delightful Huaypar family.  We were outside in their courtyard on a warm evening.  They were totally hilarious and enjoyed our visit so much.  While I work the computer, Hna J gets a Chechua lesson - along with stomping cockroaches.  It was nonstop action til about 10:15 pm - and we did get a lot of work done for them, despite 4 of them hollering at me at the same time, and Hna. Maribel sneakily tapping my "delete" key when she didn't agree with the information provided by the others.

Well, here's the result.  3 generations of smiling faces and a big family Fan Chart extending for several generations, and many temple ordinances approved and sent.  We really feel welcome and appreciated here, and are glad to be able to help.

The Zone Leaders, Elders Bird and Salazar had 3 full days of appointments set for us.  We'd start between 9 and 11 am, and work solid through til 9pm - or 10:15.  We started this day with a delightful visit to the home of Hna Zulma and Hno. Hebert, one of the stalwart families of members in QB.  They have 1 son in the US, another studying to be a doctor, and a daughter who's a nurse.  And they have a BIG family tree from which Hna Zulma is ready to push the button and send family names to the temple.

Hna. Constanza is a "pension" for Elders Falslev and Montero, meaning that she provides meals for them twice a day.  She has been doing this service for many years - she is paid for the food that is purchased - but prepares it as a calling and service.  The elders who have pensioned here for many years insist she is one of the best in the mission.  Well, when you get a big glass of freshly squeezed tasty sweet orange juice to start with (not the Sunny D in a box that we have in Cusco), who wouldn't be happy about that?  In case you can't tell, she just served a couple (large) glasses to us as we were helping her with her Historia Familiar work.  

 Next to the home of Hno Ronal and Hna Yanet, who served us more fresh fruit drinks.  They watch a video while Hna Yanet holds one of their twins, just born 2 months ago.

Hna J. gets to hold the little girl, who is exactly the age of our newest granddaughter Eden, whom Hna J has not even been able to hold yet - though we have seen some very cute pictures and video.  Hna J. did get a little emotional here as she realized the sacrifice she's making while being away from her own grandchildren - but realizes it's only for a short time.

Elders Salazar and Bird accompany us to the edge of town, and we all climb on a combi that runs the "B" route from one side of town to the other.  About 80 centimos, or about 25 cents each.  Not the greatest for comfort, but they do get us moved around fairly quickly, and are quite cheap.  How the drivers make any money, I can't figure out, but there are lots of them making a living this way.

After a rather warm - it was right on the edge of hot, but not quite - morning, we arranged to exchange with another set of Elders for our afternoon appointments at Misky's, a heladeria (ice cream store) at a convenient location in town.  I wonder why the elders suggested this place?  Probably they knew that Elder J would spring for "cremoladas" all around.  These are local fruit and ice cream drinks and are only 2 Soles or 63 cents each, so they didn't break the bank.  The missionaries don't have very much extra cash for treats like this, so they always like it when we come to town.

 Here's the freezer full of tubs of helados, each in a different flavor.  Which one is the best?  Unfortunately, we didn't get to stay in QB long enough to sample them all, but we did detour to Misky's once a day to get some cremoladas to cool down, and sometimes a quick lunch of other sandwiches from their menu.

 Quillabamba is the land of hard-cab mototaxis, and there are hundreds of them.  Each city has its different "signature" taxi vehicles:  In Cusco, every car is a taxi, but there are no mototaxis.  In Puerto Maldonado, there are hardcabs, 3-wheel motos, motorcycles, and a few cars.  In QB, there are no 3-wheel motos, and the cars are not taxis, there are a few combis.  These are actually nearly comfortable for 2 passengers, they get around quickly and cheaply, and if the weather is nice, they are quite pleasant to ride in.  Don't try to squeeze us + 2 elders in one of these though.

Our last night in QB, we were invited to present Historia Familiar in their Seminary class.  Seminary is held once a week in the evening.  Hna J instructs about the "why" of HF, its scriptural and historical background.  She did a very good job, with only a little help from the Elders.  He had everyone's attention, and actually spoke a little Espanol, interspersed with laughs, and English.  She spoke with the Spirit and everyone understood her message.

Hna. Marita is the usual instructor in the class, and she graciously allowed us to present this evening.  She was a willing participant, and a good example of how important family information can be preserved on familysearch.org.  Her information was quite complete, and she's ready to send family names to the temple system.

We brought treats for the class:  a delicious torta chocolate (cake), from a local shop that was reported to make very good cakes, and the report was correct.  Also two 2.5 liters of soda.  Between the class members, Elders Montero and Falslev, and a few members who were at the capilla, its was all gone very quickly.

Our trip to Quillabamba was very memorable and productive.  We were so delighted to meet wonderful members and friends there, and as usual, the missionaries were extremely helpful.  We had meetings with 11 families, plus the Seminary class.  Given our remaining time of service, it's questionable if we will make it to QB again, we hope so, but with the travel schedule we have for the areas of the mission that we still need to visit before year's end, we may not get the chance.  If not we have wonderful memories, and hopefully our work here will benefit the members, and help them increase their love for their families and the Gospel.

Our driver Rento was willing to pick us up in QB on Friday morning and bring us back to Cusco.  He made a very early-morning trip down from Cusco with a car full of passengers, and was ready to pick us up at our hotel at exactly 10:00 in the morning.  I think he anticipated another nice propina, which he surely earned for his careful and safe driving all the way back.  6 hours, including a lunch stop in Urubamba.  It was a beautiful day, and I took lots of pictures of the spectacular landscapes all the way back.  Again, Hna had her maximum dose of twisty roads.  I had Hna J take a picture of us as he dropped us off in front of our apartment in Cusco. We'll be calling him again to take us to Abancay at the end of this month.

Dance, Dance - - Bailar (Dance), and work of course, and get ready to travel

We were invited to attend the Dance Festival of the Cusco Stake.  We didn't know quite what to expect, but it was spectacular, and very fun.  A tradition here is that once a year, the adults in each barrio (ward) select a team of dancers, unique costumes of local or historical tradition, and choreograph a custom dance routine for display to all the members and guests of the Stake.

We were first greeted by Hno. Rigoberto, who looked like a colorful bird.  This was our first indication that it was going to be a special and exciting evening, even though it was a bit chilly - which doesn't bother the Peruvians a bit.

There they go, between 8 and 20 dancers in each team, and they are natural dancers, especially in the folk dance traditions.

Did I say colorful costumes?  I wish that we understood the local traditions and customs a little better, we have seen variations of all the costume types in different festivals in Cusco.

Well, you might guess that Hno. Marco and Bishop Santos are farmers, and you would be right.  Those aren't weapons they're holding, they are representations of the traditional farming tool that was used anciently by the Chechua for digging and planting, sort of like an all-purpose shovel.

More dancing and twirling.  I went to the 2nd floor of the Stake Center to get a better view for some photos.

 The adult dance festival is held once a year - we hear the one for Inti Raymi Stake is coming up soon and we're looking forward to that.  The youth have their own dance festivals at another time.

Everyone has fun and is willing to pose for pictures.  A lot of work goes into making these costumes.

This group had unique costumes, the women looked like cowgirls, and the men like Shriners - they had to use both hands to hold their hats on during the entire dance.

Well, here are all the farmers.  They brought bundles of straw and threw it up in the air.  And look at their bare feet.  I asked Hno Enrique if their feet got cold the answer was "SÍ"

The dancers from barrio Santiago.  Do their hats look like lampshades?  Knowing there would be lots of pictures taken, they wanted to make sure everyone knew which barrio they were from.

A closer view of Hno Romulo "hombre mas guapo (handsome) en Cusco" with his lovely esposa Hna Emma and the lovely Hna J.

If you let the Elders grab your camera, there are usually a lot of selfies on it that I have to delete, but they did manage to snap one of us as well.

Well, after the festival is over, it's back to work.  After a previous session with Hna Luzmilla, we get to help her esposo Walter.  He's on the phone with his father - who has about 3 generations of detailed family information in his head - and Hna is writing it down as fast as she can.  I've told Hno. Walter that we'd like to meet his father, and we really would.  He lives in Cusco, and hopefully we'll get to see him soon, there are so many amazing people here.

Another great family.  Note the "Mi Familias" and photo books all over the table.  Also note that everyone is bundled up in their coats.  Not much central heating here (meaning none), so everyone just dresses according to the temperature, and life goes on without a hitch.  Hermanas Hollingshead and Corsetti are especially helpful, and a delight to work with.

 Still at work late in the evening.  It took a couple of meetings to get Hno. Washington's and Hna. Isabel's family information entered - along with a couple of phone calls to track down missing information.  Their two boys are Michael and Zeniff, and they are two active handfuls, like boys everywhere.

Hna J. gets a big hug as a reward for all her help and love.  Well deserved and much appreciated!

Another day, and we're off to Mercado (market) San Pedro.  This is like Alice's Restaurant, where you can get anything you want, from clothes to fish.  Here we're at our favorite sellers of nuts and dried fruits - of all kinds.  This time we loaded up on cashews, almonds, golden raisins, and aguamentes, which are very tart.  You'll see the reason for our stop here in a bit.

Just across the walkway from the nut sellers are shelves of colorful and delicious fruits of all kinds:  pineapples, grapes, about a half-dozen varieties of oranges and tangerines.  It would be considered "fall" here, but really the end of the dry season, and many fruits and other crops are being harvested now, but some grow year round so there is always plenty of tasty choices.

Hna J tries her hand at high-altitude baking.  She brought a "Pie in the Sky" cookbook for high-altitude cooking - but it only gives recipes and variations for 10,000 ft, and we're at over 11,000 ft here!  I will say that she got this one right on the first try, and they were a treat.  Unfortunately, we're leaving town in a couple of days, so she gave most of this batch to the Elders who live in our building - lucky them, and they know it.

So what are all the nuts and dried fruits for - well, the tastiest trail mix in the world!  We always like to have some of this when we travel, for snacks as well as some meals that we miss because we're working odd hours, or just don't feel like going out.  And what are the really colorful fruits - M&M's of course.  This really is the best snack ever.

Just a day or two and we're off to Quillabamba - at one of the far ends of the mission.  We've heard some wonderful things about it, but it's about a 6 hour drive to get there, which Hna J is not looking forward to.  She doesn't travel well on the twisty mountain roads, but she'll endure it to get our work done there.  Quillabamba is one of the "jungle" areas, sort of like Puerto Maldonado, except it's 7,000 ft elevation - how can there be a jungle as high as Park City?  Only in Peru!

Adventures in Ollantaytambo, Aguas Calientes, and Santa Teresa

After receiving an invitation from Elder and Hermana Rhoades to accompany them on a short trip to Santa Teresa during "cambios" or changes/transfers, the day arrived, and we got ready to go.  The first step is buying train tickets.  I won't say that it is the most efficient process we have ever gone through here, it could be the opposite.  The frustrating thing is that after waiting in line for at least one hour each of 3 separate times - the tickets only cost 10 Soles:  $3.25.  In Cusco, there were several unused computer kiosks obviously installed for ticket purchases, but they were dark, and it was the old "take a number" process. 

It was an easy walk from the Rhoades apartment to the train station, and as usual, there is always something new and unusual.  Where do you park your llama?  Well, right next to where you park your car.

 In the ticket queue at the Hidroelectrica train station.  Yes, an hour to buy a $3.25 ticket

They finally make it to the window.  All tickets are hand-written.  Why not just peel them off a roll?

 A nice late lunch before we board the train.  I will say that the trains do run exactly on schedule, and we had allowed plenty of time to enjoy this meal before we boarded.  Our "carnets" or resident cards allow us to buy in-country transportation (air and rail) at substantial discounts over what the tourists pay.  The luxury train all the way from Cusco to Aguas Calientes can cost the tourists up to $300!!

Why is Elder Rhoades holding Hna J's purse?  Well, because she forgot it at the restaurant and didn't realize it until we had boarded the train - 20 minutes before departure time.  Before I could head back to get it, E. Rhoades took off at a sprint, up the hill, and got back with it before we left.  The total distance up and back was about 1.25 miles as close as we could guess.  He was puffing, but made the run without triggering the big one.  Guess all those years of fireman training pay off.

Peruvians rank at the top for cleverness!  Can't say they are the most advanced or efficient, but when it comes to getting the job done, give me a crew of Peruanos any day!  So if you have a pile of big rocks, but you need gravel to build your house, what do you do?  Easy, just bring in a portable rock crusher!  Obviously this is tiny compared to the ones I have seen in the US, but it gets the job done, and pretty soon there is a pile of sized gravel, just right for the job.

Aguas Calientes (Hot Water) is at the foot of Macchu Picchu.  It has been built up into quite a bustling tourist town to serve all the visitors to MP, and there are a LOT, from all over the world.  In the morning, the street to the left will be lined with buses past the bridge, just to get the first load of tourists up the hill to MP.  Think of a bus ride from Farmington to the radar towers, and it's about the same, maybe a little shorter, but more switchbacks, and mostly through the jungle growth.

Elder and Hna Rhoades get a good look at the countryside from the train.  They don't do a real good job of trimming the growth, and some of the tunnels are quite narrow, so E. Rhoades was pretty watchful.

As always, another combi ride.  The train ends at Hidroelectrica, and we get jammed into a combi for the last leg to Santa Teresa.  Its uncomfortable and crammed, but its such a unique experience that we always enjoy it - you never know who (or what) your traveling companions may be.  I've had everything from freshly skinned llama hides to live cui under my seat.  As always, the Hnas enjoy each other and the whole experience.

Some time ago, there was a fairly major construction and hydroelectric plant installed here to provide the electrical power for Cusco.  This is the outlet for the water that has already spun the turbines.

The Rhoades made reservations in a jungle lodge just outside of Santa Teresa.  No 5-start accomodations here, they promote the natural experience, and it was quite enjoyable.

Yes, that is mosquito netting, and it's not just for decor.  Protects us at night from mosquitos, and other flying or creeping critters.

What do you get in the jungle?  Why fresh fruit of course.  They just hack off a hand (yes that's what they call it" of bananas and hang them on a rope, and the guests can take the ones they like.  Several varieties of oranges and avacados were also ripe and available at this time, and we really enjoyed them.

Santa Teresa is known for its thermal springs, and that was the objective of our trip.  OK, it's no Lava Hot Springs, but the pools were well built and clean, and we really enjoyed the soak.  We met people from all over South America enjoying the springs.  As usual, E. Rhoades easily engages everyone in conversation, and we met a delightful couple from Argentina.  I managed to sputter a few words, but I really could understand a lot of it.

Time to head back.  Here comes the train engine to hook up to the cars.  It's a single track up and down, so they switch the engine at the end of the line to pull rather than push.  There are also a few sidings where trains can pass each other.

 Here we go around the curves.  There is a walking path (sometimes just the train tracks) where backpacking tourists can make the walk, and we saw a lot of them - mostly young people.  I'd rather pay $3.50 and enjoy the ride.

I've never been called a raging environmentalist, but it was good to see these poly bags filled with discarded plastic that has been collected, and will be tossed into an empty freight car to head back to civilization and get recycled.

 Hna Rhoades negotiates for some gifts for her grandchildren at a local market in Aguas Calientes.

Hna. J makes a new friend, like she does everywhere.

During the "wet" season, the small river can rage up to the high water mark.  Aguas Calientes is at the bottom of some near-vertical mountains, and over the eons, many large rocks have falllen off the side and end up in the riverbed.  They are mostly some variety of limestone, and you can see how the currents and debris have shaped and worn some of them.

A view up the river back towards Aguas Calientes.

What grows in the jungle, well bananas of course, and here's a big "hand" of them that are still ripening.  

Aguas Calientes is built on the side of the mountain, like a lot of places here, and sometimes the only way to get goods up and down is by hand, as shown here.  This guy's got a heavy load, and its at least half a mile from the bottom of town to the top.

Money for sale!  These are Peruvan "Incas", which were the currency before soles, which was the currency before Nuevo (new) Soles, which are now used.  These are only good for souvenirs, and I bought 500 and 1000 Inca bills in excellent condition, 3 Nuevo Soles for both.

The interior of the Catholic church in Aguas Calientes has very ornate altars and frontspieces.  It's open for tourists to visit.  The "saints" on the right are carried out and paraded through town at several times during the year for celebrations.  Those processions are always quite colorful and interesting to watch.

Where do you set up a market?  Anyplace that there's people, which in Peru is most places.  This one sets up at the rail terminus at Hidroelectrica.  Always easy to grab a snack before the train leaves.

Back in Ollantaytambo, we buy a big ear of "choclo", which is giant-sized corn.  Its freshly boiled, and delicious with salt.  One of these was a good snack for 2 of us, and it only cost 3 Soles, less than $1

Better be prepared for sudden rainstorms, as we always are (note Hna J's raincoat in the pictures).  A quick cloudburst here, but it only lasted about 20 min.

The original smiley face!  I don't think the Incas carved this in their wall, my guess is that some jokester did it not too long ago.  This was a very quick and enjoyable 3-day trip, and we got to see some very interesting places, and some things that we had heard of, but had never seen before.  We scheduled this trip over the "cambio" or change/transfer day that the mission has every 6 weeks.  Our schedule is a little disrupted over this time, as missionaries may be transferred in or out.   Knowing when these happen, we can schedule little adventures like this one when we would otherwise have downtime.  And being able to spend a few days with the Rhoades was a delight all in itself!